MAKEUP MUSES Marilyn Monroe Marilyn Monroe was the ultimate bombshell, but she wasn’t born that way. As photographer Milton H. Greene put it, “You don’t just wake up in the morning and wash your face and comb your hair and go out and look like Marilyn Monroe. She [knew] every trick of the beauty trade.
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? A friend of Monroe’s mother, who would later become Monroe’s guardian, told Monroe at a young age that with a different nose and hair she could be like Jean Harlow. 31 It seems as though this stayed with her, as the first of the three key moments in Monroe’s transformation from Norma Jeane into the icon we know today was when she dyed her hair (she starred in Howard Hawks’s screwball comedy Monkey Business with full platinum blond hair in 1952). The second moment was when she reportedly had plastic surgery in 1950 on her nose and chin (these rumors have been confirmed by the notes from the office of Hollywood plastic surgeon Dr. Michael Gurdin, which were put up for auction and thus made public knowledge in 2013). The third was when she met her makeup artist, Allan “Whitey” Snyder. Snyder was the makeup artist for Monroe’s first screen test for 20th Century-Fox in 1946. She demanded that he do her makeup the same way as she did it for her modeling, even though he told her it wouldn’t work for film. Sure enough, when she appeared on set, the talent director chided Snyder for his work, which made Monroe panic. Snyder reapplied her makeup, calming Monroe and earning her trust. 32 He would be Monroe’s makeup artist for the rest of her life, and they had an incredibly close relationship he helped with her much reported stage fright, and even did the makeup for her funeral (at her request), as well as being a pallbearer. Both Monroe and Snyder knew that the appearance of youth was an imperative in Hollywood, where stars, particularly women, had a short shelf life. All of the makeup Snyder used suggested “good health” and ensured that Monroe literally shone whenever the camera was on her. Coral cheeks, layers of glossed lipstick, fake eyelashes, dewy foundation these elements were responses to the popular commercial fantasies of femininity that expressed the postwar American Dream; health, wholesomeness, and well-regulated erotic pleasure were available to all through the cinema screen.
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