Eye makeup jigsaw

Historical Beauty;

Cochineal-, madder-, and ochre-based mixtures were all used for lips and cheeks, as well as the toxic vermilion (like that used in ancient Greece). Makeup was carried in “sweet coffers” that contained all the cosmetics an Elizabethan woman would require: ceruse (the obligatory porcelainpale powder), rouge, and decorative patches. As a contrast to their highly prized pallor, Elizabethan women of the court and nobility added a flourish with rouge all over the cheeks and lips, giving the impression that they were painted. As one unnamed Elizabethan satirist commented: “An artist needs no box of paints to work, but merely a fashionable lady standing nearby to use for pigments.” The problem, as the poet John Donne would later astutely observe, was all in the perception: “What thou lovest in her face is colour, and painting gives that, but thou hatest it, not because it is, but because thou knowest it.”15 The color that rouge gave lips and cheeks conformed to the beauty ideals of the time and could be flattering but men did not want to be made aware of its artificiality. Early Christian writers had created a powerful association between makeup and deception that was hard to shake, with Saint Cyprian declaring that the act of painting the face and “staining” the cheeks was “to drive out all truth, both of face and head, by the assault of their own corruption.”16 The pervasion of the idea of makeup creating a “false face” during the Renaissance period can be seen in Shakespeare’s writing too, notably in Hamlet when Hamlet cuttingly says to Ophelia, “I have heard of your paintings too, well enough; God has given you one face, and you make yourselves another.” The Danish critic Georg Brandes went so far as to comment that, “if there is anything which Shakespeare hated with a hatred somewhat disproportionate to the triviality of the matter . . . it is the use of rouge.”
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