To go with this bare-bones approach to makeup, hairstylists adopted an equally relaxed attitude. At Marc Jacobs, the hairstyling crew, led by Garren, left hair loose and natural and used the time saved to relax, smoke and gossip. “The look of hair is very easy, nothing contrived,” Garren said. “It’s time, especially with the look of the American collections, that hair be more at ease.”
On the runways of Milan, in a country that promotes sexiness in women even in the workplace beauty tended toward the racy. At Versace, the girls vamped it up with stick straight, slightly unkempt hair and eyes heavy on the smoke a look that screamed of late nights and too many cocktails. At Gucci, dark eyes also abounded, but with a smudgier, slept-in naughtiness. “The eye has a smoldering rock ’n’ roll feel,” explained makeup artist Pat McGrath. At Dolce & Gabbana, hairstylist Eugene Souleiman also made hair straight, yet messy. “It is organic, beautiful in a sensual way,” he said. “That is what Dolce is about sexy women.”
Parisians consider fashion an art form as serious as their cuisine and literature, welcoming both experimentation and theatrics. It’s only fitting that, at the fall shows, hair and makeup followed suit. Hairstylists tried just about everything except letting locks fall freely. Souleiman messed hair up (and kept it that way with bursts of hair spray) at lifohji Yimamoto, held it back casually (with spritzes of salt water) at Stella McCartney and, at Hussein Chalayan, hid real hair under glued-on pieces that he cut with the abandon of a hyperactive child. At Alexander McQueen, Guido Palau dared to put hair into three gravity-defying ponytails with the use of heavy gauze and duct tape, and makeup artist Val Garland took the cue, applying theatrical silver-and-black eye makeup in an ode to Seventies rockers Kiss.
Still, it wasn’t all outlandish. Paris paid homage to its traditional side, too, reminding us that classic beauty always has its place: Playing up the city’s famously glamorous red lips was McGrath, who sent out shiny reds at Christian Dior and John Galliano and burgundy at Louis Vuitton.
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